The Vêtements designer's first collection for the maison is a critical hit but comes under fire for the show's lack of diversity.
In an overall lackluster fashion season, the immediate reaction on social media to Vêtements designer Demna Gvasalia's debut collection for Balenciaga seemed to suggest that this was the thing everyone had been looking for. The clothes felt fresh, unexpected, and of-the-moment, but still displayed a mastery of tailoring, color and print combinations, and couture proportions.
The collection was presented, as per the show notes, as "a new chapter...a reimagining of the work of Cristobal Balenciaga—a wardrobe of absolute contemporaneity and realism imbued with the attitude of his haute couture."
The couture silhouettes for which Balenciaga is known—cocoon shapes, gentle sloped backs, skirts that stand away from the body—were reinterpreted in sportswear garments like windbreakers and puffers that open up away from the collar bone. These are the kind of streetwear staples that Gvasalia's line Vêtements is known for—and with this collection for Balenciaga he proves he can translate that feeling of realness and urgency to something more refined and luxurious.
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